If you’ve read my Me Made May recap, you probably have seen quite a lot of this fabric. After my floral Moneta dress, and the waistband of my first Brume skirt, I had just enough left to cut the short version of Brume from the leftovers. Now if only I could find the same fabric again in another colorway…
Seriously, this fabric is perfect, especially for this skirt. While the Ponte I used on my previous version was not stretchy or drapey enough, on this one the fabric is both stretchy and thick enough for the skirt to be fitted but not too tight.
Aside from the fabric I had a few fit issues with my black Brume skirt. In order to go from a size 36 1/2 at the waist to a size 40 at the hips, I had widened the pattern pieces at the bottom of the yoke (what corresponds to the “shelf hips” adjustment as explained by Eléonore) and at thighs level (what corresponds to the “low hips”…). The result of the combination was not too bad but I ended up with extra fabric at the sides and on the lower back.
In the mean time, Eléonore published a very thorough tutorial series (part 1 and part 2) for adapting Brume to one’s body type. That’s when I realized that what I needed was a FBA (Full
Bust Butt Adjustment). The ultimate proof: as an example, for her tutorial, she used a picture of my behind..! No way for me to deny reality any longer, so I started from a size 36 1/2 at the waist and did a 4 cm FBA following these explanations (which gave me a size 40 at the hips), and the result is perfect.
I think this skirt won me over, after the Mabel that I didn’t like that much and my previous version of Brume whose length makes it a bit too formal for my taste, this one is perfectly wearable for day-to-day outfits. I’m starting to get used to the silhouette and I have to admit it is a very comfortable skirt. I still think it is a bit too short but I didn’t have enough fabric to lengthen it anyway so…
I also find the seaming on this pattern absolutely wonderful, especially since I didn’t forget to topstitch the yoke this time. So I have to show it from every angle:
Look at this topstitching!
Anyway I am in love with this pattern. It is also super quick to make, especially now that I have the pattern pieces with the FBA already prepared. I’d like to find a nice scuba knit to make another one for the fall, so if you have online shops to recommend for this I’m all ears…
Brume – Deer&Doe
Size 36,5/40 with FBA
Jersey Hancock Fabrics