Deer&Doe: the Lupin jacket

March 30, 2016

Lupin1

Over the last few weeks, projects made from the new Deer&Doe patterns have started popping up all over the place, and that makes me really happy. On my front I have finally been able to finish and photograph my version of the Lupin jacket, and I’m taking this opportunity to answer a question that has been asked a lot: can you wear it closed?

Lupin7

Lupin is a casual jacket with draped panels on the front that make it look like a Perfecto motorcycle jacket, and gathering at the waistband that calls more at the bomber jacket. It also has double welt pockets and is entirely lined. At first I thought it would be a more complex project than what I usually make, but that wasn’t the case at all: putting it together is really easy and fun. Actually, looking at my blog archives, I realized this was my first time making a lined jacket! Maybe it’s time I start sewing something else than dresses…?

Lupin4

For the main fabric, I picked a mid-weight linen-cotton blend that has a little less drape that what is called for for this pattern. I think it makes the draped panels stand up a bit more than they are supposed to, but I like it. The lining is a very pink rayon batiste. You’ll have to believe me on this one: linen + rayon is the ultimate combination, this is the most comfortable spring jacket I’ve ever worn 😀

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As soon as I finished it, I put it on to try with half of my wardrobe. There I suddently had some doubts: I wasn’t so sure that the casual style of the jacket worn open was working so well with all my fit-and-flare retro dresses. So I tried a quick hack, and added two sets of large sew-on snaps at the waistband, so I can also wear it closed.

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This is what it looks like open and closed. I do like how the jacket looks open, and that is probably how I’m going to wear it the most (also because it is so comfortable!) but the closed version shows the waistline better.

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I don’t like the closed version as much from the back, as the more fitted, higher waistband means more volume in the lower back. I think than in order to actually wear it closed it might be worth shortening it by a few centimeters.

Lupin_ouvertferme2

And just in case you want to know, this is what Lupin looks like if you straighten up the panels. I wonder if there’s a way to make it work like this, maybe with a separating zipper like on a Perfecto? Or snaps all the way up?

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So what do you think, do you like it better open or closed? If you have other ideas of closures to add to this jacket, I’d be very curious to know them!

Lupin2

Lupin Jacket
Lupin – Deer&Doe
Size 38 / 36,5
Lenghtened by 1cm
Linen-cotton blend from Fabric.com
Rayon batiste from Fabric.com

Comments

  1. Meg White

    - March 30, 2016

    I love this pattern, and I love your finished jacket! I have really been wondering about a closure for it. I didn’t realize the front openings were on such a diagonal and had been wondering about putting a zipper up center front. I still wonder if it’d be possible to hack them into a straight center front seam with a short zipper and then slant out to the lapels…. But your solution with the snaps at the bottom is adorable. I have to get this pattern. Nice job!

    • Camille

      - May 6, 2016

      That’s probably very easy to do! I actually tried basting a detachable zipper on the center front and the result is not too bad, it creates kind of a shawl-collar effect that drapes on the front or to the side. If you have a zip that is flexible enough it might be worth a try 🙂

  2. Caitlin

    - April 10, 2016

    Hi Camille! I really love this jacket in the linen you chose (and it looks great even without the recommended drape). I really like it with the bottom snaps – if I make this soon I think I need to add those too!

    For the straight-panel-closed look, I bet you could sew a strong magnet in during construction, so the right lapel and left chest can stay closed but without the need for a full line of snaps or a zipper. Unsure if the fabric is too heavy for that to work. Might be interesting to try it out in the future!

    • Camille

      - May 6, 2016

      Oh the magnet is a good idea! I wonder how that would affect the drape of the panel when the jacket is open. I’ll keep the idea in mind 🙂

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