Deer&Doe: the Sirocco jumpsuit

April 28, 2019

Here is my version of the third pattern of the Deer&Doe spring-summer collection, the one who won the most hearts by a landslide: the famous Sirocco jumpsuit!

Right from the release, Sirocco’s success has been huge, which meant a lot to us given all the work and faith we put in that pattern. We received a lot of great feedback from sewists who made their own jumpsuits, and as many excited comments about the pictures of the black version, that I’m wearing with classy heels in the store pictures. But let’s be honest, in real life this is how I’m wearing my Sirocco: in a floral print, with clashing flamingo-printed sneakers!

Before Sirocco, I had never worn a jumpsuit. Not that I didn’t try, but I never found one I liked in ready-to-wear or from other pattern companies. Boilersuit-style jumpsuits, which hide the waist completely, are something I admire when worn by other people, but they don’t work at all for my body shape and I feel extremely uncomfortable in them. Same thing for those jumpsuits that are elasticated at the waist with a very blousy bodice. Sirocco, on the other hand, has a defined waist and adorns the hips with pockets and pleats, which complements and balances my pear-shape silhouette.

I especially like the neckline, which is just the right depth to balance out the “fabric block” effect that jumpsuits can have. It’s the same idea than with the neckline of the Magnolia maxi dress, except that Sirocco’s neckline is totally bra-friendly.

After several muslins in solid colors during the pattern development process, I figured for my final version I could go all in: I chose the kitschiest floral jersey I could find at Jo-Ann! It’s a double brushed poly knit, like the one I fell in love with when making my Givre dress. This fabric is such a blast to wear, super soft and with just the right amount of body. Personally I think it’s the perfect fabric for Sirocco!

What I like the most about this fabric is that it has excellent recovery, and springs right back to shape after being stretched out. It’s not always the case with cotton jersey knits, even the ones who contain some elastane. Between my double brushed poly Givre dress and the one I made in the classic cotton-elastane jersey knit from Rascol, I realize that I wear the polyester one much more because it holds its shape so much better throughout the day.

With the recovery of this fabric, the pockets (reinforced with clear elastic) are perfect: they don’t gape, they don’t pull on the side seam, I’m pretty proud of them. Another construction detail I like are the back darts. I’m not used to sewing darts in knits, and for this version I tried out a technique from Threads magazine: sewing darts with a serger! I am totally convinced: quick, easy, and the result is spotless!

There’s no denying it, this jumpsuit is clearly the most extra garment in my wardrobe. Every time I put it on, there’s this voice in my head telling me that wearing it out of the house would be wayyyy too much. Yet from all the garments I’ve sewn, this might be the one that gets me the most compliments! I keep getting comments on it, from my neighbors, from the cashier at the supermarket, from perfect strangers at the airport, all telling me how stylish it looks! 😮

With the summer temperatures that we’re already having here, it’s almost too hot to wear this long version. I have in my stash this tropical leaves print jersey knit that would be perfect for the romper variation, but even though it’s such a quick project to sew I’m not sure I’m going to have time for it. It’s always the same when Me Made May arrives, I always end up with a gigantic to-do list at the last minute! Is it the same for you?

Floral Sirocco
Sirocco – Deer&Doe
Size 38 bust & waist / 42 hips
Waistband lengthened by 1 cm
Rise lengthened by 1 cm
Double brushed poly knit from Jo-Ann

Comments

  1. Caitlyn

    - April 30, 2019

    I’ve been eagerly awaiting this reveal since you alluded to the project back in February. 🙂 I can see why it changed your mind about jumpsuits: the tailored fit is so sharp! Also, kudos to Deer&Doe for finding a way to make pockets work in a fairly close-fitting knit–you’ve pulled off a minor engineering miracle. Your “most extra” Sirroco has made me want one very badly!

    • Camille

      - June 2, 2019

      The pockets were really the main challenge of designing this garment! I think the combination of the ease at the hips created by the pleats and the clear elastic + understitching really makes them work 🙂

  2. Muriel.Nahtzugabe5cm

    - May 4, 2019

    Your Sirrocco looks gorgeous.
    Thanks for bringing this pattern into the world. I love jumpsuits and can’t wait to sew my own version- just need to find the right fabric.
    Regards Muriel

    • Camille

      - June 2, 2019

      I hope you find the perfect fabric for you! 🙂

  3. Shannon

    - May 4, 2019

    I think you look absolutely adorable! You picked just the right fabric for your jumpsuit. And isn’t that why we sew?

    • Camille

      - June 2, 2019

      Thank you 😀

  4. Amber

    - June 2, 2019

    Both this and your solid version look amazing on you!
    I’ve finally got my hands on the pattern! So excited to own and make a jumpsuit that has a flattering waist!
    Like you my hips are bigger then my waist and bust size with patterns,
    So how did you grade in between the sizes?
    Did you make bigger pleats to reach the size of the waistband?

    • Camille

      - June 2, 2019

      I didn’t change the pleats, just graded at the sides from a size 38 at the waist to a size 42 below the pockets. The only thing to watch for is to keep the length of the pocket opening so that it matches the pocket pieces. That said, starting from your waist size and slashing and spreading the leg pieces, making the pleats and darts bigger, might work for you too!

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