Deer&Doe: the Nénuphar Jacket

May 13, 2018

After the Myosotis dress, the second pattern from the new Deer&Doe collection I’m showing you today is the kimono-inspired jacket named Nénuphar.

Nénuphar is a “kimono-inspired” jacket more than an actual kimono, because it has set-in sleeves instead of sleeves in the continuity of the bodice (as is the case on the Arum dress for instance). Even though they are slightly trickier to sew, I like this type of sleeves better since they don’t create an excess of fabric under the arm. I think they give the jacket a more sophisticated feel around the shoulders, a bit like a blazer.

I had never worn a kimono until then by fear of looking unkempt (working from home is a slippery slope…) so that’s what I like about this pattern: I think it is a more structured and more dressed-up version of the classic kimono jacket. The detail on the collar with the notches adds on to this, as an extra nod to blazers. It’s a detail that is very easy to sew, but super effective.

I also like the gathers in the back, which break up the silhouette from that angle and most importantly make enough room for my butt, which needs a little more width than my shoulders. I think the proportions are critical on this type of detail: when the gathers start too low for my taste, as they do on the second version of the Archer shirt for example, I feel like they add volume instead of making room. I wonder what the ones from the Alder shirtdress would look like on me. Any insights?

As a whole I find Nénuphar to be really easy to wear, as it works as well worn with Safran jeans here than over a Givre dress. However it’s true that with the flare of the long sleeves, you have to be careful where you put your arms. I went out to eat ramen the other day as I was wearing it, and I got to say it wasn’t easy 😅

The fabric in which I made this version is totally vintage: it’s a soft lightweight cotton lawn I found in my grandmother’s attic. I believe it belonged to my great-aunt, or my great-great-grandmother maybe, I’m not quite sure. I’m stepping out of my comfort zone with this khaki color, warmer than the rest of my wardrobe, but I like the change. I thought the print was perfect for this pattern, geometric and vaguely folkloric but still subtle.

It’s crazy how much the fabric choice changes how this pattern feels. During the testing phase I made a second long-sleeved Nénuphar, in rayon this time, and the result is so much more casual that I wear it with completely different outfits. I hope I’ll get a chance to take pictures of it soon, as well as my Narcisse pants in striped linen. For now it seems compromised since I’m drowning in boxes for my move in a couple weeks (we’re going back south! Yay!!!) but I’ll do my best 😉


Vintage Nénuphar
Nénuphar- Deer&Doe
Size 38
Lengthened by 1 cm
Vintage cotton lawn

Comments

  1. Sam

    - May 14, 2018

    This is beautiful. I can’t wait to make this jacket. I have visions of a denim or navy linen version with some sashiko stitching on.

    • Camille

      - May 23, 2018

      This sounds so lovely! I love sashiko

  2. Pingback: #Nénuphar# Reviewers and Testers Round-Up – Deer&Doe • the blog

  3. PsychicSewerKathleen

    - May 14, 2018

    I love this jacket! I have this pattern winging its way to me right now and can’t wait to make it up. Do you think it’s better in a stiffer or more drapey fabric? I have both so I was just curious what you found better?

    • Camille

      - May 23, 2018

      Personally I like wearing the ones in drapier fabric more. Version A in stiff fabric like the one I’m wearing on the shop is very cool, but it’s definitely a statement piece and not my personal style. I personally find version B in drapier fabrics a little more wearable 🙂

  4. Samantha

    - May 27, 2018

    The Alder dress gathers are remarkably well placed. I didn’t expect to like them, but they looked good! They hit at a good level, and they don’t go all the way around to the front, so there’s a flat plane down the center of the dress. Give it a try, I bet you’ll like it.

    Your Nenuphar is beautiful, my pattern arrived the other day and I am looking forward to making one….!

    • Camille

      - June 27, 2018

      Thanks Samantha! I think I’ll do that 🙂

  5. Elisabeth

    - June 16, 2018

    Hi Camille, what a lovely version of this beautiful pattern! I am working on mine at the moment and I am rrreally struggling with those set-in sleeves :-(… Even though I know it just is a tricky technique that needs some practice and even though there are lots of tutorials out there, I was wondering whether you had some tips for this pattern in particular. I am making mine from a crisp cotton sateen and because of the sheen you can spot every little unevenness in the sleeve cap immediately /o\ so a little help would come in really handy 🙂
    Love your blog, and love the sophisticated everyday chic deer-and-doe style!
    Best,
    Elisabeth

    • Camille

      - June 27, 2018

      Hi Elisabeth! I didn’t really have any issues setting the sleeves in my versions of Nénuphar (I made 6 so far! It’s a perfect pattern for gifts hehe) so I don’t know if I’ll be of any help. What I usually do is instead of using a basting thread to ease the sleeve cap I just use lots of pins, and I hold the sleeve cap curves when I pin, I don’t know if that makes sense. Good luck with those French seams!

  6. Elisabeth

    - June 16, 2018

    … ah, maybe I should add: Not only do I try to get the sleeve in pucker-free, but I also chose french seams as a finishing method, fully aware of the fact that it will make it even harder

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *